Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Cusco, Coughing, Carlos, Customs, Carradine




Airport complications. This is the nightmare of any traveler especially an uninformed and inexperienced one such as myself. It was one week before my scheduled departure out of Cusco when a lovely little disease now known as the swine flu broke out in Mexico. Genuinely fearing for my heath I followed along as best as I could -Spanish language television wasn't ideal at a time like this- for many days to the latest updates on this situation. As well as constantly checking the status of my flights. Yes flights, not being made of money I bought the cheapest round trip ticket I could find however this meant sacrifices. Those sacrifices came in the form of multiple painfully long layovers. One of which just so happened to land in Mexico City. Up until this point every flight and layover was still planned to leave on schedule. Which did indeed mean spending 7 hours and 15 minutes waiting in the Mexico City airport. Imagining being surrounded by hundreds of coughing germ ridden potentially infected travelers made my skin crawl. So when the URL at the top of the computer screen changed to reveal my newly cancelled flight a clean breath of relief escaped my uninfected lungs. Which of course was followed by the thought "how the heck am I going to get home". As it turned out my only viable options were to either attempt to phone the airline or fly to Lima as originally planned and sort it out in person at the airport there. My travel buddy Kristin and I decided to wing it and so we got on that plane to Lima. Little did we know our unlucky streak had boarded the plane with us. Once we stepped out of the quiet and seemingly safe area of baggage retrieval into the frenetic main floor of Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chavez the next few hours were a cataclysmic blur of events to which a timeline could not be deciphered. Somehow we must have known the torture we were in for because we had managed to get a hold of a baggage buggy instead of manually toting around our backpacks as we usually did. Our time in the airport was dedicated to figuring out a new route home. Several trips were made up and down the elevator – where I would accidentally ram the baggage buggy into the doors… every time. Those doors move slower than you expect them too- in search of different floors and different offices then towards the phone booths to make a series of useless calls except the ones home of course. Kristin eventually decided that we were going to follow these two guys that were employed by the airline to a travel agency a couple of blocks over. I had run into one of these fellows earlier but being cautious of solicitors who stand at the entrances of airports I chose to make other attempts before leaving the airport with someone I didn't know. However every one of my efforts failed and frustration had built to an uncharacteristically high level. So once again we chose to wing it.

The sun had long since set though the smell of salt and ocean stayed to remind us that despite the fact the ocean was not visible from where we stood it was still within reach. The air held a mysterious humidity one moment warm and soothing and the next it would force me to break out in chills. I supposed I noticed this more than anything else because in a way it mirrored perfectly how I was feeling at the time. Calm would give way to panic only to turn back into comfort which spent the rest of the night battling it out with secretly terrified. On the outside however I stayed as composed as one could under such circumstances. So as Kristin and I walked with the two strangers whom we soon learned went by the names of Hector and Jose we began to explain our problem in a messy combination of languages most affectionately known as Spanglish. Only later to retell this story at the travel agency and once again to a man named Carlos a friend of Jose and Hectors who was recruited to help because it turns out he is a well connected man and was also teaching English nearby. His English did have its flaws and I admit I took much amusement out of the fact that he would frequently use the wrong gender pronouns. Nonetheless he turned out to be a real blessing, scoring us a flight out of Lima for the next night to LA and then to home. Our next task was inevitably to find a hostel, though Carlos deemed the first one our taxi stopped at unsuitable. When he politely informed us a well-known prostitute in the area ran it and she sometimes worked from home we instantly ruled it out too. We eventually did manage to find ourselves a nice hostel and as late evening transformed itself into early morning the only thing left to do was to join our three new friends for some local cerveza and karaoke followed by dancing at one of the cities many discotheques.

This journey ends only 24 hours after it began with me standing in line at the Edmonton Airport Customs watching a girl suspected of having the swine flu get pulled off to the side and medically examined. I can’t help wondering if they quarantined her.


Fun Fact: Also standing in front of me in the customs line was I swear David Carradine (I am a solid 98% sure). After being momentarily amused by the swine flu girl I tried to eaves drop on this mans conversation with the customs officer to see if his name would be brought up thus validating my suspicion. I am not sure if he caught me doing this or not my memory is a little fuzzy on the matter. However I so badly wanted to say: “excuse me you look awfully familiar.” yet my feet remained glued to the floor for the following reasons:

1. I wasn’t going to be that person. You know the kind who get all crazy over celebrities and don’t know the meanings of “subtlety”, and “playing it cool.”

2. I am notorious for thinking that people look like and are celebrities even if they aren’t. (I grew up thinking my hair dresser was one of the Dixie chicks) Basically I didn’t want to embarrass myself.

3. I didn’t want to pretend to be a fan of someone whose only work I had seen was a cameo on a Disney channel show from my elementary school days.

4. You don’t mess with airport officials.

Unfortunately this is my favorite part of the story although the least believable part as well. It turns out he did show up in Edmonton at Prohibition two nights later to play bocce. Now that is a cameo I can respect.

Carwash Phenomenon: A Theory

Carwash Phenomenon: A Theory

Sitting in anticipation I waited until those first few drops of water hit the window. My tiny fingers turning the volume dial increasingly to the right as the water pressure built. Out of the speakers came a song.
The carwash seemed like just another box in search of a checkmark placed somewhere near the end of an errands list. A list such as this was usually pulled out every Saturday upon which my mother and I (sometimes my sister as well) made it our mission to complete each and every task. Though this wasn’t always possible therefore leaving the car in an earthy/grimy state. One might even say dirty. Perhaps the rarity of such trips added to my excitement every time we were able to make it to the bottom of the list. The Carwash emerged from downtown like a tropical paradise in the middle of the Arctic. While The fresh aroma of cleaning products and the ability to buy an air freshener from a vending machine –even one that promised you it smelled like rainbows- all added to the blissful atmosphere. Being too young at the time to operate such large cleaning devices my mother would insist that I remain inside the vehicle. Now to make such an endeavor worthwhile it was important that she leave the keys in the ignition so I could turn the radio on. If this happened (and I made sure it did) the procedure went as followed: The radio got clicked on while I held down the search button for a few seconds and then let go until it found the closest station1. The volume was then instantly turned up and I waited until those familiar pink suds enveloped the car as if it were a child’s security blanket. Allowing any and all passengers the prime opportunity to rock out, if they so desired without anyone seeing (and I made sure I did)
"Well," I said slowly, "you know, everything sounds better when you're driving through the car wash. It's just, like, a fact. Right?" ... "Which car wash?" ... "It's not any one car wash," I said. "Its the car-wash phenomenon. You really don't know about it?" "I don't," he repeated. Then he reached down, shifting into reverse. "But I will. Starting now."
I was 15 when I discovered this passage from Sarah Dessen’s Just Listen. Up until this point I had never realized it was a 'thing' before let alone a 'Phenomenon'. To me it felt like a secret club, member count: 1. However this did further validate my own personal theories on music and the Car Wash. I have always had this deep-rooted belief that there is no such thing as a bad song2. Every song merely needs to be matched to the right mood or location and exercise the perfect timing. I'll use two of John Mellencamp's songs as an example. Everyone has heard "Footloose" and "Jack and Diane" however if you played them back-to-back you would see that they don't elicit the same reactions. "Footloose" begs for a place where you can dance and get wild whereas "Jack and Diane" is best when driving with your windows down on the open road. Now swap the two suggested locations for those songs and you will find that it isn’t possible to drive safely while listening to "Footloose" and there are no good moves that can be busted out to "Jack and Diane" Yet the Car Wash acts as the great equalizer putting both songs on the same level. The environment that exists there is akin to a special force field3 or a cone of silence4. Somehow the loud noises emitted by the cleaning apparatus’ and the perfectly silent enclosure of the car collides to create an amazing backdrop for any song.
It was only a few weeks ago when I found myself once again at the Car Wash. Only this time I offered to get out and help clean the car. Temporarily forgetting about the ‘Phenomenon’ and all of my previous experiences there. As that same pink lather flowed from the giant brush and my arms grew sore I asked myself: “Why did I used to think this looked fun?” I elected to let my mother hose down the car and then apply the hot wax. There I stood in the corner of the little cubicle trying to avoid getting an unnecessary hot wax facial. When I inadvertently thought, “I wonder what is on the radio.”
Eventually our time had expired and we drove out the other side of the building back into the regular flow of traffic. As I watched the remaining water droplets roll down my window I could only hope we hit a massive puddle ensuring I would be back soon. Only next time I’m not getting out.



1Talk radio was instantly disqualified. And the search was redirected.

2Example: Violet from The Incredibles

3Example: Get Smart -because it doesn’t entirely work if when you have the music that loud.

4Isaac Newton’s laws of motion had the exception of the theory of relativity discovered by Einstein. Where as my theory of music has the ‘3 artist’ exception, also discovered by me. This exception states that any one person is allowed to completely and utterly loathe the music of three artists without disrupting the theory of music. My picks: Shania Twain, Barry Manilow, and I have decided saving my third option for future crimes against music.

In The Beginning

Hello family, friends, strangers, and stalkers. This blog began as a means to keep one and all informed of my travels. However that turned out to be an epic fail. So now I am going to use it as a means of sharing my post travel stories, theories and insights.

As a disclaimer I just want to mention that all of these stories have indeed been written by me so please don’t steal them and passively disguise them as your own. I know they’re fantastic stories but its really not possible that you or “someone you know” could have had the exact same experiences. Thanking you muchly.

Jen